Daniel is one of the governors’ at Osiligi and he is also the Depute Head at Magadi Soda School – one of the most successful and prestigious private schools in Kenya. I was keen for Bonface and I to visit and explore their resources, methods of teaching and get a sense of what a good Kenyan school looks like. Daniel was keen for me to deliver staff training on the Competence Based Curriculum to his staff. Quid pro quo!
We set off in the afternoon. It is a two hour drive into the interior and there are only a few villages between Kisamis and Magadi. It was incredible to see how desolate the landscape became. I have always thought Kisamas and Olepolos are rural and isolated but they are nothing compared to what is 20 miles further on.
There are almost no sources of water. Maasai walk miles and miles to fetch water for themselves and ensure their cows and goats have enough to drink. It is a harsh life. Bomas (compounds of family groups) and manyattas (individual houses) are surrounded by the sharp thorns of acacia trees to keep out predators. It is desolate, very harsh and a tough tough life. At several points, groups of women wait at the side of the road to collect water. A clean water tanker is their only source at this time of year. They must pay for water.
We reach Magadi and it is an extraordinary place. The views are stunning. The salt shimmering on the shores, provide an ethereal ,other-worldy effect. It is an island set in the middle of Lake Magadi. and is a company town. Everything is owned by Tatu Chemicals. We drive over the water to the security checkpoint. Everyone is signed in and out. I scan the water for pink flamingos. This is one of the areas where they flock. There are a few but only in the distance. Apparently, the best time to see them is the rainy season.
We head to the town because Bonface’s car is making a strange clunking noise. Besdie the petrol station, there is a wee hut. Inside, is a man with a hammer and a piece of wire. Meet the mechanic!
As we wait, I indulge in some people watching. It is definitely a Maasai town but Tatu pay well and provide homes for their workers. The Maasai are richer here, as evidenced by the fact they wear chukas with Chelsea and Manchester United football tops, sunglasses and roar about town on fancy motorbikes. It is quite a sight.
Car sorted (supposedly) Bonface is not happy. They charged him an exorbitant price because he had a mzungu in the car. One mile on and it’s obvious it’s not even fixed. He will sort it himself. He used to be a mechanic before he was a teacher.
We arrive at the school and are welcomed by Daniel and Stanley, the school principal. We are booked into the company hotel, which is adjacent. I walk past the swimming pool as I am shown to my room. I almost jump for joy. There is a shower – a real shower! This will be my first one since arriving in Kenya. I feel like a tourist!
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