Richard, one of the school governors announced that it was time I graduated from mzungu (white person) to mzungu Maasai (white Maasai) in recognition of all the work that I have done for the school. His plan was simple. His wife, Peninah would take me to Kiserian market where a Maasai lady’s traditional outfit would be made for me. The timing was perfect. I was due to attend a housewarming party at the weekend. Now I would really look the part.

Next day I walked to Kisamis to meet Peninah at her shop. We took a matatu (shared taxi or bus) to Kiserian. It cost a whopping 70p each for a 20 minute journey. It was an ordinary car so it would usually seat 9 people – 3 in the front, 4 in the back and 3 in the boot. But in honour of the mzungu, they restricted it to 3 in the back so it wasn’t too cramped.

First stop in Kiserian was the fabric shop. It was the size of a toilet cubicle. Peninah knew exactly what she had in mind. Fabrics were chosen, examined, matched or discarded until she found the exact combination. The materials were expertly measured and cut to size. Throughout the process other customers came in to purchase, single buttons, zips, small pieces of material for headscarves etc. It was fascinating to watch.

Next stop was the tailor. Charles took my measurements, listened carefully to Peninah’s instructions and confirmed he could have the whole outfit ready by 2.30pm. (It was now 11.30am) Not bad customer service!

A maasai outfit for ladies consists of three main parts. Firstly, a long skirt with a small slit worn at the front. Secondly a tight fighting three quarter length tunic which goes over the skirt. Finally a cloak which is tied around the neck but sits on the edge of the shoulders.

When it was ready, I tried it on. I have to say I was impressed! Charles had done a brilliant job. Peninah was very excited. I was going to be a sensation at the house-warming party.

Back at school, I showed Bonface my purchases. He looked at me. “Now is the right time, he announced. “Right time for what?” I asked.
“Mzungus are revered and respected in the Maasai community. This outfit will elevate you to a new status. You will now be considered a mzungu Maasai which means you are a demi-god! Therefore, this would be the best time for me to sell you. I would get a lot, a lot, a lot of cattle!” Fair enough.

Interesting times! A demigod? That’s a first. I can’t wait to tell my husband. I wonder if I can take my newfound status back to Scotland. Somehow I doubt it.


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