We were standing at the counter, having just realised we would not be able to purchase train tickets because some staff iDs were photocopied. Fabulous.  Then I spotted an information desk in the corner.  It might be worth trying our luck there.  Bonface explained our dilemma to Carol, who was manning the desk.  She seemed vaguely sympathetic but was very interested in me.  Where was I from? Scotland.  She had visited Glasgow when she worked as a flight attendant!  She would sort this problem out for us.  She was the business development and customer care manager.

She whisked us from the station concourse to the top floor of the station where all the management offices were located. All of the signs were in English and Chinese.  As we chatted, she typed up a letter giving us permission to purchase the 19 rail tickets that we needed with only photocopied ID. Things were going so well that Bonface seized the opportunity to explain his little problem with the policeman.  No problem.  Carol made a call and led us the office of the Head of Security.  Polite greetings exchanged, more chat of Scotland, lots of smiles and he assured us it would be dealt with immediately.  By this time, I was beginning to wonder why we were getting the VIP treatment.  Bonface confirmed my suspicions – it was the mzungu effect!  Today I was actually an asset rather than a liability!

Back on the concourse, we followed the sign –Tickets at Booth 3. We queued for 10 minutes to reach the front.  “You must go to booth 5 to book for a large group,” we are instructed.  So we queued at Booth 5 for another 10 minutes.  “You must go to booth 7,”  Really?   I tried to curb my impatience.  Bonface remains unfazed.  We go to booth 7 – it is closed!  After another 15 minutes, we return to Booth 5 where the assistant reluctantly processes the tickets – but only the single journey t Mombasa.  We must queue again at another booth if we want to return.

There were almost no queues but it still took more than an hour to buy our tickets. The station is such a curious mix of efficiency and inefficiency. As we leave, we pass a group of VIP Chinese and Kenyan officials being given a tour.  They look very impressed at the modern station. And they will stay impressed so long as they don’t actually try to buy a train ticket!

Driving from the car park, Bonface got his driving licence returned from the policeman who managed to appear both apologetic and sullen at the same time. Mission accomplished with a little help from the mzungu effect!

Categories: Kenya

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