Travelling on foot in India, it is difficult to avoid hard-selling, hustling and some hassle.  It can be exhausting and a bit annoying.  After all we were supposed to be on holiday. You start off politely enough. ” No thank you…….not now…maybe later….etc” and you end up engaging in conversation.  You learn quickly that behaving in this way is an invitation to further debate. It makes your intended “no” sound like “maybe”  so you become a bit harder and a bit more brusque.  You drop the smile, the please and thank you, and avoid eye contact.  it works but it doesnt feel right to be so dismissive even though you know the sad truth.  You cant buy everything.  You cant eat everywhere. You cant give everyone a job. You also know that giving money to beggars perpetuates the problem.

Gemma has been travelling in India for 6 weeks, has had a few interesting encounters. In Goa, a man approached her in the street.  ” You have suncream on your ear, ” he told her.  As she smiled to thank him, he reached towards her face (as though to rub it in) and then put something in her ear.  She stepped back, and challenged him.  He removed a small implement fro her ear, deftly stepped around her and inserted it into her other ear. ” No, ” she yelled and he removed it.  This all happened in a matter of seconds. ” You owe me 50 rupees for cleaning the wax fromyour ears, ” he insisted. Gemma refused to pay, turned and walked away.  This is a bizarre story – a bit funny and a bit scary at the same time. I cant think of anyone who would be comfortable with a complete stranger putting something in your ear.

But what about the guy? How awful must your life be to have a job like this? You essentially mug people for ear wax and try to get money from them. It is safe to assume he lives from hand to mouth, in the underbelly of the city.  His scam is probably to fund his next meal, or his children’s next meal.  it is unlikely to be for a holiday in Benidorm.

So when the hassle, the scam or the hard sell starts, I try to remember this.  I smile, say hello, no thanks and move on with no further conversation or engagement.  It costs nothing but at least those few words acknowledge the value of another human being.


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