We were headed to Mombasa to see the sights and our mode of transport was a matatu (Kenyan minibus). I had seen these vehicles many times since I started coming to Kenya but this was my first trip in one. They have an appalling safety record. I’ve been told they are all owned by policemen!.
Some helpful information may be in order. A matatu seats 14 people but this includes the driver and the “boy” so really they are licensed for 12 passengers. In reality, most matatus travel with between 12 and 20 passengers. The seats are so worn, that they are often just material covering over springs – the actual seat having given up long ago. The best seat in a matatu is in the front beside the driver. The boy is the equivalent of the old-fashioned bus conductor. He takes the money, stops and starts the vehicle by banging loudly on the rood and when the matatu is quiet- he gets out, runs up and down harassing people to join the ride! He is most often found sitting in the window frame or standing by the open door.
Matatus are usually highly decorated with graffiti like art and often have christian messages emblazoned on the back. They certainly need divine protection with the way they are driven!
As the mzungu, I got the seat beside the driver. On the positive side, it was definitely more comfortable. On the negative side, I could see the madness of the driving at close range. Our driver set off through town but the traffic was annoying him. No worries. It’s only a problem if you stick to the road – which he didn’t. We drove along the verge, honking the horn furiously at people, donkeys, piki pikis and anyone else in the way.
We swerved, accelerated, braked and honk honked all at once. It was like an out of control dodgem ride. I clung to the door handle for dear life. I looked in the mirror and was glad I was not in the worst seat which is the very back row. Poor Fred, Wasike and Paul were crammed into an impossible space with their knees battering off their chins.
All of a sudden, our matatu boy jumped out of the open door, while the vehicle was still moving. What on earth was going on? My question was quickly answered as a different boy ran alongside, grabbed a handle and hauled himself on board to replace him. The vehicle barely slowed down.
At last we reached Mombasa. I was grateful to be alive. What else can you expect for 100KS (about 76p??)
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